LI YINUO (0369740)
DST65004 Fashion Project 1/Bachelor of Fashion Design Technology (Honours)/Taylor's University
Task 1: PORTFOLIO RESEARCH & DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
(WEEK 1-WEEK 4)
WEEK 1 (26/09/2025)
After the summer vacation, we ushered in the first week of study. Today, Mr. JR introduced our learning tasks for the whole semester. This semester, our task 1 to final project will be carried out around kebaya.
We need to complete Kebaya Reimagined by gaining an in-depth understanding of the historical background and related culture of kebaya.
Each of us should choose a specific theme to make our own kebaya costume. I chose coral.
Making kebaya this semester is another new challenge for me. I'm very nervous because I didn't know about kebaya before, but I will slowly explore the cultural background of kebaya so that I can have my own ideas about the Kebaya Reimagined project.
WEEK 2 (03/10/2025)
This week we need to do in-depth research on kebaya. Included here are the kebaya definition, the history of the kebaya, and kebaya types & the traditional pattern.
Through this research, I gained a deeper understanding of kebaya.
About subject matter inspiration research, because I chose coral as my topic. Therefore, I consulted a lot of information about corals. Since my research mainly focused on coral bleaching, I also researched information related to coral bleaching and water pollution in Malaysia.
Then I learned some information about corals, such as the definition of corals, the types of corals, and cross-sectional diagrams of corals.
Self-Reflection:
Choosing coral as my theme and incorporating it into my kebaya production was challenging. Perhaps the key to representing the coral's form on clothing lies in the fabric treatment.
WEEK 3 (10/10/2025)
This week we need to do the 10 initial drawings. Below is my drawing
Finally, Mr. JR chose the first and fifth images and the first image of the second to continue to develop the drawing.
Self-Reflection:
My drawing skills aren't very good, and I haven't been able to express my ideas very well. I think I need to learn Photoshop...
Last week I finished the 10 initial drawings; this week I need to do the developing drawings.
The above is my hand-drawn illustration; I also created a digital colored version later.
I then made a mood board. Self-Reflection:
From the initial idea to the deepening design, I learned how to gradually refine and improve a vague concept. This process has exercised my patience and ability to control the details. The improvement of digital drawing skills allows me to express design intentions more efficiently and accurately. The process of making the mood board taught me how to integrate scattered inspirations and elements into a cohesive whole.
Task 2: FABRIC MANIPULATION & TEXTURE SAMPLINGS
(WEEK5-WEEK6)
WEEK 5 (24/10/2025)
This week we need to do 3 fabric manipulations & texture samplings.
These materials, which I found on YouTube and Pinterest, gave me a lot of ideas and inspiration.
Below is my first sample.
There are four colors in total. I used satin fabric. Cut each color into an 8 cm * 8 cm square, then roll them up diagonally, fold them in the middle, and sew them onto the fabric.
The next sample involves cutting the organza into circles with radii of 3 cm, 5 cm, and 10 cm. These are then hand-sewn into a bubble shape and then rolled up and sewn together with a 10 cm x 10 cm square of organza, just like the first sample.
Self-Reflection:
Through personal practice, I have mastered the basic techniques of fabric transformation, including folding, sewing, and combination. This has greatly improved my hands-on ability. I learned how to convert inspiration from the Internet into practical and tangible fabric samples, which has exercised my creative transformation ability. I have a deep understanding of the characteristics of different fabrics. For example, the luster and drooping of satin and the transparency and tightness of organza all show completely different effects in the transformation. The production process of the first sample was longer than expected.
In the future, it is necessary to plan time more reasonably and conduct small-scale tests in advance.
WEEK 6 (31/10/2025)
This week we need to do the final portfolio, which includes research, design development, mood board, technical drawing, and final drawing. And then there are conceptual inspirations.
This week we still need to buy fabric. I've chosen to use the fabric I used for embellishments to make my dress, which is satin. I want it to have a luxurious feel, like a formal gown.
The decorative part is made of satin and organza, with some pearl embellishments.
Self-Reflection:
In terms of fabric selection, I can choose materials according to the design goal in a more targeted manner to ensure that the texture of the fabric is highly compatible with the design concept.
When considering the decoration part, the combination of satin, organza, pearls, and other elements improves my ability to control the details and the overall effect.
Task 3: FINAL PROJECT—"KEBAYA REIMAGINED"
(WEEK 7-WEEK 14)
WEEK 7 (07/11/2025)
This week in class, Mr. Jr. first checked our fabric manipulations and then, based on our design drawings, placed them on the mannequin to see where each fabric manipulation should be positioned.
After that, I took a photo as a backup and then started making TestFit.
Self-Reflection:
Actually, I had no idea how to arrange the decorations at first until Mr. Jr. showed me where to put them, and then I got a clue.
WEEK 8 (14/11/2025)
This week I first finalized my technical drawings.
Then I started test-fitting.
After completing the skirt part with calico fabric, I didn't work on the hem because it requires a lot of fabric and garment draping, which can be done directly with actual fabric.
Self-Reflection:
Although I didn't make a skirt, I feel that making a skirt is the most difficult part. The short skirt part is very basic.
WEEK 9 (21/11/2025)
In Ms. Melina's class, I finished cutting out the kebab pattern, and in this class, I will use calico fabric to do a test fitting.
Kabaya always requires two pieces to be cut. After cutting, leave a 1 cm margin and sew them together (since it's test-fitting, there's no need to sew an inner lining).
Mr. Jr. was very satisfied with my kebaya patterns. I think it's still important to communicate your ideas with your teacher more during the learning process.
WEEK 10 (28/11/2025)
After I showed Mr. Jr. my final test fitting, he asked me to change the upper part of the sleeves to a basic style.
He was satisfied with everything else, so I started making the actual fabric.
Like test-fitting, I first cut the actual fabric on the kebaya.
Before sewing them together, each piece needs to be ironed with a jacket interfacing, as this will make the fabric stiffer and easier to sew the pattern on (I forgot to communicate with Mr. JR after cutting the fabric, I sewed it on directly, and then took it apart again).
After correction:
After making the corrections, I showed it to Mr. Jr. for review. He helped me draw the position of the pattern, and then I began the next step—sewing on the pattern.
Self-Reflection:
I shouldn't blindly proceed to the next step; each step should be checked by the teacher before I proceed.
WEEK 11 (05/12/2025)
In this lesson, I will continue working on patterns in kebaya.
Because the satin was very stiff, the sewing machine kept breaking threads while sewing, so I sewed the organza part first.
Then I started sewing the top buff part.
The buff section is made of both satin and organza and needs to be cut into three different sizes of circles with radii of 10 cm, 5 cm, and 3 cm, respectively. Arranging these different sizes creates a pattern that gradually decreases in size from bottom to top.
I sewed five of each color and size.
Hand sewing video: video
Self-Reflection:
The process of sewing the pattern was really tiring...🥲😭
But seeing your own work come to life step by step is still very fulfilling...
WEEK 12 (12/12/2025)
I've finished the kebaya pattern on the top, and this lesson I'll start working on the skirt. My skirt consists of two parts: the skirt itself and the hem. I've already finished the skirt; I need to work on the hem with Mr. Jr.
After Mr. JR positioned the skirt, I needed to hand-sew each pleat.
Hand sewing video: videoThen the sides were also hand-sewn up.
Replenish: I ironed the hem of the skirt with lining.Self-Reflection:
I have to be very careful when sewing up the pleats on the skirt.
WEEK 13 (19/12/2025)
After finishing the skirt in the last class, this class will be the finishing touches, including the belt, collar, and buttons.
The collar I measured was 170 cm, so I cut out a rectangle that is 170 cm long and 10 cm wide.
Then leave 1 cm at the top and bottom, and fold and iron this part so that it can fit better when sewn onto the kebaya.
Then cut out the belt and iron on stiff interfacing.
After the outer layer of the collar is sewn with a sewing machine, the inner lining needs to be sewn on by hand. Be very careful, very gentle.
Self-Reflection:
At first, I tried to make the collar and belt myself, but I forgot to put in the lining, so it looked very messy. I took it apart and made it all over again.
WEEK 14 (26/12/2025)
I finished the kebaya this week.
This semester's Fashion Project 1 has been a very real growth process for me, from the initial exploration of inspiration to the final production. At the beginning, we did a lot of cultural and thematic research around Kebaya Reimagined. I chose the theme of "coral" and also conducted in-depth research on coral bleaching and water pollution. This not only broadened my design horizons but also taught me how to incorporate social issues into clothing design.
During the design phase, I drew many initial drafts and continuously revised them based on the teacher's feedback. Although my drawing skills were not yet fully developed, I gradually learned how to express ideas by combining numbers and hand-drawing, which allowed me to present my design intentions more effectively. Later, in tasks involving material experiments, fabric deformation, and texture sampling, I improved my understanding and control of fabric characteristics through hands-on practice.
The final Kebaya project presented me with the challenges of actual sewing and detail work, such as sewing on embellishments, adjusting the skirt hem, and finishing the lining. Although the process was tedious and involved several mistakes, each adjustment helped me understand more clearly how to transform a design from concept to a finished product. Overall, this project not only honed my design and practical skills but also improved my problem-solving and communication abilities, laying a solid foundation for more complex design tasks in the future.
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