LI YINUO (0369740)
DST64204 Garment Draping/Bachelor of Fashion Design Technology (Honours)/Taylor's University
Task 1: PRINCESS BODICES AND DESIGN VARIATIONS
(WEEK1-WEEK3)
WEEK 1 (23/09/2025)
This week we started working on task 1—Princess Bodices 1 & 2.
First, Ms. Melina introduced me to the data for the mannequin and the tools we would be using this semester. Then she taught us how to attach lines to the mannequin.
Then we started to put it into practice ourselves.
Since we're learning garment draping this semester, and Task 1 involves making a corset, learning how to attach seams to a dress form is crucial. This will affect whether the corset pattern we make is correct.
Self-Reflection:
The first lesson covered the data of the human platform, the use of this semester's tools, and the core technique of "marking stitching on the human platform." Put the theoretical knowledge into practice and practice the steps of marking the stitching on the human platform.
However, when I actually marked the seam, the position and arc control of the line were not accurate enough. In the future, I need to observe more reference cases and do more small-scale exercises to improve the accuracy of details.
WEEK 2 (30/09/2025)
In this lesson, we'll begin learning how to make a proper corset. There are two versions: the first is the Classic Princess Line, and the second is the Armhole Princess Line.
Then, let's start with the first one.
The first piece consists of four parts. The first piece is the area from the center front seam to the princess seam, then the area from the princess seam to the side seam. The back piece is the area from the side seam to the back princess seam, and then the area from the princess seam to the center back seam.
Position them individually on the mannequin, then cut them out.
After cutting out the appropriate pieces of fabric, we need to sew them together manually.
The above is what I completed.
The practice is much more complicated than I thought. At the beginning, when I positioned and cut the fabric on the platform, it felt quite smooth. But when I put together the cut front and rear pieces, side pieces, and princess line pieces of cloth, the problem came.
The most difficult part is to match the marking point. Especially in the position of the chest and waist, the marking points of each piece of cloth must be accurately aligned; otherwise, the corset made will be crooked or not satisfactory. Just to adjust these points, it took me a long time to remove the line several times.
Through this practice, I really understand why the marking line on the platform is so important. That's not a random drawing. In addition, I also realized the difference between three-dimensional cutting and flat plate making—on the human platform, you can intuitively see how the fabric rises and falls with the curve of the body, which can't be found on the drawings. Of course, there are also things that are not done well. For example, the pieces of cloth I cut are not even enough in some places, resulting in a slight feeling of pulling after sewing. In addition, the traces of manual stitching are also a little obvious, and it is not flat enough.
In general, although I was tired this week, I felt a great sense of accomplishment. Looking at a piece of flat cloth slowly turning into a shaped and structured corset in my hand, this feeling is wonderful.
WEEK 3 (7/10/2025)
This week I completed the second armhole princess line in Task 1.
First, Ms. Melina demonstrated how to make it on the miniature figure.
After that, we began hands-on practice.
Regarding cutting the fabric, it's similar to the first method, but the points to note are: for the front piece, the line runs from the center front line to below the armhole curve; for the front side piece, the line runs from the armhole curve to the side seam; and for the back piece, the same applies. After cutting, sew them together by hand.
The above is what I completed.
Self-Reflection:
At first, I saw the teacher's demonstration on the mini platform, and it felt similar to last week's classic princess line. But when I really started to cut the film by myself, I found that the difference was quite big. The main challenge lies in the dividing line of the crop. The classic princess line comes down from the shoulder part, while the princess line of the sleeve hole starts from below the sleeve. This means that I need to cut the fabric from the front midline to the bottom of the cuff curve and then cut it from there to the side seam. Because the position of the sleeve hole is very important, I am very careful when marking and cutting, for fear that the wrong position will affect the balance of the whole dress. Compared with the previous week, my biggest progress this week is the speed and accuracy. I don't have to confirm the marking point repeatedly as before, and the shape of the cut piece is smoother.
Task 2: EXPLORATION OF GARMENT DRAPING
(WEEK4-WEEK8)
WEEK 4 (14/10/2025)
This week, I started by doing a final review and summary of Task 1 and then began Task 2.
Ms. Melina first showed us a video about garment draping and then provided some photos of bras as examples. Then she began making models of the bras.
First, we need to attach lines to the mannequin, then wrap the upper body of the mannequin with plastic wrap. After doing this, use washi tape to secure half of the mannequin.
Self-Reflection:
This week, we finished the first stage of learning and started a new task—three-dimensional cutting of underwear. It is completely different from the corset made before. The structure of the underwear is more refined, and the requirements for fit are also higher. Just looking at Ms. Melina's demonstration of plastic wrap and tape shaping on the human platform, I feel a little incredible. This week is relatively easy.
WEEK 5 (21/10/2025)
This week we'll continue making the bra model. After applying the tape last lesson, we need to draw the lines on it.
Ms. Melina first showed us a finished bra, explaining the placement of the breast pads and boning, and how to position them. She also showed us the zippers.
Then we started making the model.
First, we sketched the approximate position of the chest, then marked the front and back center lines. Next, we drew the general shape of the bra, slightly above the chest. The red lines indicate the marked positions of the bra, and the black pencil marks are for areas to be left unpainted.After doing this, cut them into six pieces.
Self-Reflection:
This week, we continued to learn the three-dimensional cutting of underwear and began to really make models. Compared with the previous corset, the structure of the underwear is much finer. Just looking at the finished products displayed by the teacher makes me feel very annoyed. Chest pads, fish bones, and various supporting structures are hidden in the corset. The position and shape of these parts are exquisite, which directly affects the comfort and beauty of wearing. What bothers me most is marking and cutting. The teacher said that the red line is the outline of the underwear, while the black line is the area that needs to be preserved. At first, I was completely reversed and almost cut off the key support area. But it was corrected later.
WEEK 6 (28/10/2025)
This week we need to draw the model we made last week on paper and then cut it out on calico.
After cutting the calico, we need to iron on the lining first and then sew it up.
Below is a display of the finished product
Self-Reflection:This week's task was easy; it was just cutting calico and sewing it together. I feel my sewing skills are much better than last semester. I finished it quickly. Although it was making bras, something I'd never done before, I picked it up pretty quickly.
WEEK 7 (04/11/2025)
After drawing the pattern for the corset, we need to draw it on the actual fabric, cut it out, iron on the lining, and sew it together.
Production process video: video
Then cut out the lining and sew them together.
After sewing the lining, we need to sew the lining to the outer fabric. Note that you should take the sewing machine off when it's about two-thirds of the way through, then turn them inside out and sew them on manually.
Complete presentation:
Self-Reflection:
The process of making a bra is relatively simple; it's part of a kebaya, so we should pay attention during the process.
Task 3: FINAL PROJECT—"KEBAYA REIMAGINED"
(WEEK 8-WEEK 14)
WEEK 8 (11/11/2025)
This week we'll start drawing Kebaya patterns.
I first drew the pattern for the skirt
My skirt is a base skirt with an asymmetrical hem, and then a flared skirt is added.
Then cut it out on calico.This time, sewing the skirt was just like the one I did last semester; it was very simple for me, except the zipper was moved to the side.
Self-Reflection:
This time, I chose an asymmetrical skirt design and added an elegant flared skirt to the basic skirt. Although it sounds simple, I still encountered some challenges in practice. The biggest challenge is the layout design of asymmetrical skirts. In order to make this design both beautiful and wearable, I repeatedly adjusted the angle and length of the cut when typing.
WEEK 9 (18/11/2025)
This week I started drawing kebaya patterns.
We must separate them into center front, side front, center back, and side back after drawing. There are overlapping parts in the middle, so we need to use a new piece of paper to fill in the gaps when cutting to get a complete pattern of four parts.
After cutting the patterns, I started to cutting the calico fabric to do the test-fitting.
Self-Reflection:
The kebaya pattern I designed this time is actually very similar to the shirt pattern I made last semester; both required adding a new sheet of paper while cutting. This not only tested my spatial imagination but also required a lot of patience to align every detail.
WEEK 10 (25/11/2025)
This week I started working on the sleeve patterns. Since my sleeves are going to be divided into two parts, the basic sleeve from the elbow to the shoulder is the base sleeve, and then I added a ruffle at the bottom.
Initially, I wanted to make the upper sleeves into puff sleeves, but Mr. Jr. didn't think they looked very good, so I changed them.
Below is the initial pattern I made for the puff sleeves.
After that, I drew a pattern for the ruffled design.
First, I cut the mahjong paper into the largest possible circle. Then, I measured the circumference of my elbow joint and cut out a circle inside it. The circumference of the smaller inner circle is the circumference of my elbow joint.
Final test-fitting demonstration：
Self-Reflection:
I feel I can't just follow my own ideas; I need to communicate more with my teachers to avoid making mistakes...
WEEK 11 (02/12/2025)
In this lesson, I started sewing the patterns on my kebaya.
The bottom blue section, I need to make with satin, just like I did with my first fabric manipulation.
The red part in the middle needs to be made of organza. The organza fabric needs to be cut 2cm larger than the satin, and the pattern is the same as the satin part in the blue part.
Then, for the top green section, I need to place the buffs there, from bottom to top, with smaller buffs at the bottom.
I'll start with the bottom part. I cut the satin into 8*8cm squares, and the organza into 10*10cm squares.
Self-Reflection:
When making the satin parts, the sewing machine thread kept breaking because the fabric was too stiff, so I had to hand-sew some parts.
Replenish：
Before I sewed the pattern, I also sewed fish bones inside between each seam of the kebaya.
WEEK 12 (09/12/2025)
Last week I finished hand-sewing the buffs at home, and this week I need to hand-sew them onto the kebaya.
After sewing the buffs on, I sewed a large pearl into each of the big buffs, and then I sewed some small pearls into the organza pattern below.
After that, I started sewing the bottom satin pattern section.
Self-Reflection:Patience is needed whenever hand sewing is required; one cannot rush it.
WEEK 13 (16/12/2025)
In the last lesson, I finished sewing the pattern on the kebaya. Now I need to sew the lining of the kebaya.
Cutting the lining is simple, just like cutting kebaya fabric back then. You need to cut two pieces for each part and then sew them together.
Next, the lining needs to be sewn onto the kebaya. Note that you need to sew them inside out, leaving about one-third of the way through, then sew them inside out again. The end needs to be hand-sewn on.
The lining for the sleeves will be sewn on together with the sleeves.I sewed the shoulder linings together, but after Ms. Melina checked them, she said they needed to be sewn separately. I then corrected it.
Before:
After:
Then I started sewing the sleeves.
However, Mr. Jr. was not satisfied, so Ms. Melina and I made a new one.New sleeves:
Self-Reflection:
I learned a lot while sewing sleeves with Ms. Melina. I learned how to sew ruffles onto the basic sleeve.
WEEK 14 (23/12/2025)
I finished kebaya this week.
This semester's Garment Draping course gave me a more realistic and in-depth understanding of draping. From marking baselines on the mannequin at the beginning, to creating bodice and lingerie structures, and then redesigning the Kebaya project at the end of the semester, I went through many revisions and failures. Especially when dealing with the bust, waist, and princess seams, I often had to start over due to inaccurate markings or fabric stretching. But it was through these processes that I gradually learned to observe the fabric's direction and structural issues, rather than just looking at the surface effect.
Through continuous practice, I began to understand the logic of clothing transformation from two-dimensional to three-dimensional, and I realized that design not only needs to be aesthetically pleasing, but also structurally sound. This course gave me a stronger sensitivity to the spatial sense and details of clothing, and laid a solid foundation for my subsequent design and pattern-making studies.
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